Hong Kong I

Hey, 

It's taken me a while to put out this post. I've now been in Hong Kong for nearly three weeks. Hong Kong is crazy. It gives new definition the the phrase "a city that never sleeps." I've got many things to tell, so here goes: 

When I first arrived, everything went as smoothly as could be hoped for. I met my assigned buddy at Hong Kong Station, as we arranged. She was very nice, and brought along her high school-aged boyfriend to say hello. Unfortunately, she was not feeling that well, and so she headed home after we got into a taxi for the dormitories, and that was the last time I saw her. Its okay, I've gotten along fine without her.

First a little about my living and academic situation:

I live in RC Lee hall, which is located in a beautiful part of western Hong Kong Island, about a seven minute bus from the main campus, with a great view of the Harbor and Victoria Peak. About 375 students live in the dorm, split up into 16 floors. My room is on the ninth floor, with an ocean-side view that I can definitely get used to. The room is pretty small and the mattress is thinner than any I've seen, but the room is functional, with a fan and air-conditioning (which I pay for by the minute), and an internet access point -- all I really need. Unfortunately, I couldn't access the internet until I registered my computer with the University, which I couldn't do since I didn't yet have my student visa. The visa took about a week--and many hours in the HK Immigration Office--to get, during which time I could not register for any classes or get internet access. This cost me, as I ended up getting locked out of one class I really wanted to take. 

In the end, I have a pretty good schedule. I have one class on Monday and Thursday, and none on Friday, which is great for travel purposes. I am taking Mandarin and written Chinese, as well as History of Chinese Dynasties, Chinese Philosophy: Ethics (which for some reason keeps getting snickers when I mentioned it), Movieland: American Culture Through Film, Elementary Logic and Special Topics in Psychology: Numerical Cogntion. All told, I have a very liberal arts-esque schedule. 

We had two weeks of classes during which I couldn't really go to class, as I didn't yet know what I was taking. Now that my schedule is finalized, we are on break for one week for Chinese New Year. I'm using that break to visit Phuket, Thailand, supposedly one of the nicest beaches in the world. There I'll be taking a PADI Advanced Open Water Diving course. I'll be sure to update with pictures. I hear its about 80˚ on a cold day, and some of the best scuba diving in the world, so I'm pretty excited.

Now a few little stories from Hong Kong:

On my first night I met an exchange student named Stephen living next door to me who was born in Hong Kong but now lives in the states. He warned me that local students will be very shy, and that I will have some trouble getting to know them. He was right. Students here are not as welcoming to new comers as we are Brandeis. Its not that they are unfriendly or simply quiet people (au contraire, the most popular floor game is "let's kick the ball as hard and far as possible down the hall at 4 AM"). I believe they are just uncomfortable using English out of class, and aren't sure how to approach me because of it. Also, students on the same floor tend to become a very tight-knit group, as they will be together for all three years of their undergraduate careers. 

In attempt to ease me in to the group Stephen invited me out to hike the peak with a few other students. Of course I agreed. How many other exchange students would be able to say they hiked to Victoria Peak their first night in Hong Kong. What I didn't realize is that the group wasn't intending on leaving until about One in the morning. We reached the peak by 2:30, and then hiked back down. I was in bed by 4:30 AM, what would become a reoccurring theme over the next few weeks.

Last week we had our hall's High Table Dinner, the culmination of the weak long RCfest that has been going on in my dorm. During RCfest, halls compete in dance and karaoke contests as well as sports competitions. There is also a hall-wide vote on who is the best couple in the hall, or officially, the RC Grass and Flower. The High Table Dinner was actually very nice, if not somewhat reminiscent of what communist party dinners must have been like. We all dressed up in suits and headed to a nice hotel by coach. We began the event with a hall cheer and hall song, which sounds like a national anthem and is very well worded. My favorite stanza is:

 

"To be RC Lee's guys, we are so High. 

Cause to be RC Lee's guys, We never feel Tired...

To be RC Lee's guys, we are free to fly, 

Cause to be RC Lee's guys we have our goals in mind."

We then listed to a number of lengthy speeches about the benefits of hall culture and being committed members of the hall. The event took about four hours all told, and after we finished, all the exchange students gathered, and we headed off to hear Obama's Inaugural Address. 

The HKU exchange students hang out a lot, exploring Hong Kong at all hours of the night. Overall they are a pretty cool group, and I've made some good friends. Still, I've definitely had a few interesting experiences out here. One Dutch boy, upon hearing the Yoni was a jewish name, enthusiastically informed me that his father was a Nazi. He later tried to apologize, in case I was insulted, clarifying that he doesn't feel the same way, and he likes of "all of you." I actually don't think he meant it maliciously, but was just excited that he has some connection with another exchange student. All I could think to say back was, "Well...we're still here," and laugh it off. As the Chabad Rabbi remarked when I told him the story, "Why should you be insulted? It's more an insult to his family than it is to you."

I had another interesting meeting following the Obama Inauguration. Since Hong Kong is 13 hours ahead of the East Coast, the Democrats Abroad put on a party for anyone interested in hearing the speech. The room was filled with hundreds of people from all over the world, and it was amazing to hear what everyone had to say about our elections. Honestly, foreigners followed it as much as we did, and many seem more excited than the Americans that Obama was elected. There were definitely tears in the audience. Anyway, as I was leaving I met a Saudi Arabian named Fahhad. When he asked me where I was from, I couldn't help myself, and replied, "Israel." After a few seconds where it was clear he didn't quite know how to react, he goes, "I guess we can be friends here, right?"  

On this topic (i.e. Israel), The HKU Student Union hosted a protest of the War in Gaza. I received an email that reminded me that I'm in new territory here. The email was officially approved by the Student Union, and gave such a one sided version of the story that I couldn't believe it. To quote, " We have seen it on television and online. The Israeli Zionist government is hell-bent in annihilating Gaza." And that's not even the worst of it. I'm still not sure if how to respond, or if its even worth it. 

I've been going to Chabad for the last few Shabbatot, and this past week I visited Ohel Leah, the historic shul connected to the JCC. The building is over one hundred years old, and as a national landmark its been preserved very well. I think its the first one story building I've seen in Hong Kong. The walk to either is about an hour from my dorm, but everyone has been very welcoming, and I now have a list of people who have offered to host me, so I won't have to walk so far, not to mention  I can have a home cooked meal for Shabbat. 

On my first morning at Chabad I was speaking with a man after shul. Shalom mentioned that his wife gave birth to a baby boy earlier in the morning, and he just returned from the hospital. He lives next door, and is about to head home to see his five year son. He offered Danielle and I to join him for lunch, as his wife prepared a lot of food, but wasn't there to enjoy it. We took him up on the offer, and enjoyed an incredible lunch that would serve as a great introduction to the community. The following Shabbat we were able to thank his wife for the lunch as we joined the family at the Brit Milah of their newborn. 

Overall, Hong Kong is great. My Chinese hasn't really been improving, because everyone speaks English here, but hopefully that will change once classes get serious. I'm still getting a feel for the city and its culture, and will comment more on that once I can say more about it. I've hiked the peak a few times now, and really enjoy it. Also, I joined the Rugby team, and played for just about the entire time in my first tournament last Sunday. I'm off to Thailand now, and will hopefully have time to write from there. 

If We Fail To Reach The Great Wall We Are No Heroes

Hey,

So I promised shorter, more frequent posts. I intend to keep that promise; just not yet. I'm going to put all of the touristy adventures through Beijing in a single post, as I've now been in Hong Kong for four days and am way behind schedule. 

The first morning with the group, we woke up at 7:30 AM, to beat the rush to Teinenman Square. This would be the latest we would wake up until we flew to Hong Kong, as the tour guide kindly thought everyone would want a late morning in to recover from jetlag. While I waited for everyone to show up late the bus driver began to instruct me in the national pastime known as Jianzi. 

Jianzi is like Hacky Sack, except the sack has feathers on one end and is easier to kick. I wasn't half bad.

We headed off to Tienenman Square and the Forbidden City. As we walked Tienenman Square, I listened to our tour guide discuss Chairman Mao. I'm somewhat fascinated by the Chinese adoration of Mao. Chairman Mao had millions of Chinese killed and numerous temples and other cultural relics destroyed during his Cultural Revolution, yet the Chinese I've met all speak of him with reverence. As my tour guide put it, "Sure he made some mistakes, but he is as a god to us. He is a father of China." 

Another point. Cameras and military personnel are everywhere here. They serve as a reminder that for all its recent capitalist development, China is still a One Party Country. Even the recent Olympic motto underscores this idea,"One World, One Dream." It can be unnerving at times.

As expected, it was beyond freezing outside, and three hours into the numbing pain in my fingers, I finally decided to buy a pair of gloves and fake furry 180s. It was only later that I remembered I had brought a pair of gloves with me from the beginning .

As we finished our tour of the square, and entered the Forbidden City, I learned a new fun fact about the dragon statues that are everywhere. Many of them aren't dragons, but in fact are lions. And they come in male and female versions. You can tell them apart by what is under their paw (or claw). Male lions and dragons will have a large ball under their right paw (not very subtle), while females will have a baby under their left paw. Pictured here is a male lion standing tall. 

The Forbidden City contains what is probably the World's coolest gutter system. see dragon heads below. It also has the most ostentatiously named structures imaginable. Between the Gate of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Central Harmony, the Hall of Mental Cultivation, The Hall of Supreme Principle and more, the Chinese make it clear you should never fail to be awed by one of their buildings.

If not for American Express generously donating of its limited time and effort to create each beautiful sign that adorns the Forbidden City, I'm not sure what the Chinese would have done. 

The Forbidden City also serves the community as an army base, where soldiers like to use the basketball courts to practice marching in step.

Next up, we headed to the Pearl Market for a bit. I felt like an old timer, helping my friends not get ripped off, and showing them the black market watch dealer. Michael - you have your Rolex. 

 The next morning we woke up at 6:30 to head off the the Great Wall of China. The wall is

usually packed with tourists, and it is impossible to get around. Today, however, it was below zero and the first day back at work after a long weekend for New Years, so we had the wall to ourselves. 

The section of the wall we chose to climb was a loop protecting a mountain pass leading to Beijing. It went up and around both sides of the valley, and climbers usually picked one side, and went to the top and back down the same path. Crazier climbers did the entire loop. Our plan was not to do the entire loop, but when I got to the top, I did not want to stop. I found three others who felt the same way, and we started in the other direction. 

One of the people I was climbing with deciding she wanted to count the numbers of steps down the mountain. She gave up around 1548. At this point, she headed down a different path towards the bus, and I took a short break. I could not believe I had climbed so far. I climbed thousands of steps to the top of one side, another 1548 steps down, and I was barely halfway there. Though it was below zero still, I had my jacket of, and shirt open. I then followed the path blazoned by John Stewart, and prayed at the Wall. The wrong wall, sure, but a wall nonetheless.

   

Ya, I climbed the wall as far back as you can see it. That's right. 

After we finished the wall, I treated myself to a really cool looking dragon fruit. A dragon fruit has the consistency of ice cream but with a sort of neutral taste.  

Another point which I love about China is the way even the most official signs never seem to be translated by someone who actually speaks English. I've seen signs on subway emergency exits giving me incorrect and nonsensical instructions. Signs at the Forbidden city asked me not to climb on the perilous hills, to no scratch the protected relics and reminded me that a single act of carelessness ruins an eternity of beauty. The Great Wall's signs were no exception. I was told that speaking cellphone is strictly prohibited during thunderstorm, and I'm not sure what I was told in the sign on the left.

When I finished climbing, I purchased a little plate that reads "If We Fail To Reach The Great Wall We Are No Heroes." I did not fail to reach the Great Wall.

After we left, we went to a more traditional part of town, where we were told people live as they did hundreds of years ago. Apparently, hundreds of years ago, people ate fried scorpions and sea horses, and got their haircuts in the streets. 

 Next, we went to the Olympic Village. The Bird's Nest was huge, and weird to see in person after so many hours staring at in on TV. It had some good signs as well. 

 To finish off an exhausting day, we went to a Kung Fu show which about half the group slept through. We were up the next morning at 5:30, for the plane to Hong Kong. I've been here for four days, and it has been incredible, though I've had numerous little issues such as not having a visa, no internet until Saturday night and not having registered for any courses though class begins on Monday. Still, I'm having a great time and meeting cool new people. I'll try to update soon. I still can't believe I'm in Hong Kong for the next five months. 

Yoni

Real Gucci, Fake Gucci and the Chabad of Beijing

It's taken me a while to get out this second post; my only attempt at an excuse is that I've allowed myself to become distracted by Beijing's 16 million people who speak a completely foreign language, too many extraordinarily massive and intriguing buildings too count, inescapably polluted air (yes, you can actually see it, and I'm convinced feel it), wonderfully exotic food (Ever try a mangosteen? Because I have.), welcoming Chabad house with great roommates (including the infamous Ari Jadwin for all you Brandeisian readers) and interesting guests (including the Israeli Ambassador to China), and to top it all off, I have to eat everything with chop sticks.

With that run-on quasi-apology out of the way, let's begin.

First off, this year I began what I hope will become a new tradition for me: to welcome in the new year with a foot massage. In the interest of this not sounding totally ridiculous, we should probably back up a bit and provide a little more information about my travel arrangements.

Thus far I've been exploring with friend and fellow soon-to-be HKU student, Danielle Shmuely. Forward thinker that she is, Danielle managed to befriend a few Beijingers (???) at Brandeis prior to our arrival. Thank you to Jiyun Lee (and her overly generous mother) and Sarah Ye for watching out for us as we made our first forays into this very very foreign culture. Jiyun introduced us to her high school friends, and we welcomed in the new year in the beautiful apartment of her Singaporea

n friend, Gid. Gid is a soldier in the Singaporean army, and has spent his military career instructing new soldiers in the "Body Attack" workout method. If you don't know what that is, look it up. It's worth it.

The next morning Jiyun's mother treated us to our (well, my) first foot massage. As I had been on an airplane for 13 hours, and not stop on my feet since then, the message was a welcome treat. I noticed halfway through that it was about five to One. Thanks to the 13 hour time difference, this meant that all our friends back in the States were about to watch the ball drop. With a quick exchange of text messages, my friends and I were all assured that we were still in each other's thoughts from across the world. A quick disclaimer: if you didn't get a text message, or I didn't respond to yours, please don't be insulted; I have some problem with my phone that only about half the messages I send get to the recipient, and I have no way to know which ones go through. Anyway, as I walked out of the massage parlor incredibly relaxed, I promised myself that from now on I will begin the new year with a rejuvenating message. Unfortunately, I know that this is the kind of New Year's resolution I will be unlikely to keep.

Speaking of New Year's resolutions, this year I am resolved to be take every opportunity to explore and grow, and to ask more questions than I give answers. I hope to actually make good on my resolutions, and I think coming to China was a good start (both for its unlimited opportunities for learning and exploration, and because there are only so many answers I can give when I know so little about my surroundings or the language of the people asking those questions).

After the message and a very nice lunch, we separated from Jiyun, and went with Sarah to to check out some of Beijing's finer shopping. In the last ten years, especially since the Olympics, Beijing has developed and grown significantly. The olympics brought a lot of money into Beijing, and it has been put to good use. Gucci, Prada, Bentley and Ferrari, its all here, and hosted in beautiful malls.

After lunch we went to the Hongqiao Pearl Market. The Hongqiao Pearl Market is known as the best place in the world to get fakes and nock-offs. As with everything else in Beijing, the market is gigantic. The five story mall is filled with fake Lacoste, Burberry and Marc Jacobs, not to mention knockoff iPods, cellphones, watches and anything else you can imagine having a brand name. We had a lot of fun, especially as we learned that bargaining is basically mandatory in China. After being ripped off once or twice, I quickly learned to never let them set the first price and to always aim for way way less than you think you should. Also, always be willing to walk away. I decided to just always start with a 5 yuan offer. Doesn't matter if the saleswoman's price was 50 yuan or 400 yuan. My first price was 5. She would invariably laugh and ask me what my top offer was. I would repeat 5. How could I pay 200 yuan for a belt? I would need to buy pants to go with it as well... We usually settled on a price about 20-25% of the original offering. I was told that this is a fair deal for both parties.Next, Sarah had a surprise for us. A place only "the locals" know about. She took us to a small alley way off to the side outside the market, up a shrouded staircase, behind a set of curtains up a second staircase, and down the hall. We entered a small room filled to the brim with watches. Beautiful watches. Rolexes, Breitlings and much much more. All exact copies. There were three grade qualities here: Chinese, Japanese, and Swiss. All were guaranteed for three years. Here there was no bargaining. Prices were $50 for the cheap Chinese models and $160 for the swiss models. All looked and felt basically perfect. Some were so perfect I'm convinced they fell off the back of the truck. If I give any of you guys a Rolex for your birthday, I'm not actually being quite as generous as I'm pretending to be.
By this time it was night and we took the subway to Sarah's house for some blueberry pancakes and great view and Beijing, and then back to the hotel. Riding the Beijing Metro was a great experience. It was totally packed, yet the well ventilated and spotlessly clean cars kept the Metro feeling spacious and comfortable. New York has some things to learn about underground transportation.

The next day we went to Chabad. The Chabad of Beijing is in a gated compound next the the Israeli and American Embassies. I was placed in a small room downstairs with a bunk-bed and a pullout mattress. In the lower bunk was an Australian names Ross. He was heading back to Melbourne from Israel, and decided to stop in China for two weeks since he had to stop over on the way home anyway. In the pull out mattress was Ari Jadwin, a friend from Brandeis who I had no idea would be here. He will be in Beijing for 8 months, in an intensive Mandarin program. He signs a contract later this week forbidding him

 from speaking anything but Chinese while a student in the program.
Shabbat at the Chabad of Beijing is very interesting. Friday Night dinner is held at Dini's, the only kosher restaurant in Beijing. The dinner is very nice, with a good mix of company, including the Amos Nadai, Ambassador to China from Israel, a number of embassy workers, a few local businessmen and students, and a small crowd of recent college graduates currently living and worki

ng in Beijing. Rabbi Shimon Fruendlich is certainly a Chabad rabbi. He has that charisma and joy of life that so many Chabad rabbis seem to have. He is also very funny, and the fastest cantor you will ever hear in your entire life. With a booming voice so powerful I'm surprised I never heard it back in NY, he leads us through a 1 hour and 25 minute entire morning service. As Rabbi Shimon put it, "Why drag it on?." We still finished at 12:30, because Shacharit began only at 11. Incredible, I know.

Lunch was at the Chabad house, and included a full buffet provided by the restaurant. I learned that the restaurant is named in honor of Rabbi Shimon's wife, Dini, as her brother is one of the owners. At Chabad I also met up with an old friend from Brandeis who graduated two years ago. She was working in Beijing in public healthcare. Once Shabbat was over, she took all of us (Danielle, Ari, Ross and myself) out on the town, to discover some of Beijing's nightlife.

After we split up, we headed to the new hotel where we would meet up with the AsiaLearn group for our Orientation program beginning the next day. I'm with them now, and so far everything is going great. Next up Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Afterwards, the Great Wall.

A few quick points about Beijing:

Whoever wrote about those lights on Broadway clearly never witnessed North Beijing. It is incredible. Buildings are huge. The architecture is extremely modern, but in the best sense of the world. And it is not just the size or shape of each building, also remarkable is the sheer quantity of buildings. I guess when you have 16 million people to house you need to find somewhere to put them all, but I still never expected Beijing to be as big as it is.

It is really cold here. Cold, and dry. Dry like no place I've ever been before. And the pollution is terrible, there is a constant smell in the air, and whenever the temperature rises above zero you can actually see the smog in the air.

 It is really unnerving to see so many people walking with HEPA masks on the avoid the air you a

re breathing unfiltered. I

t seems so far I would not like to live in Beijing. Not so much because of the culture, but because I could not bear to live in a place with such a tough environment. And I hear I am visiting during the good travel months. If I came in March I wouldn't be able to see due to the sand storms that hit the city.

That's it for now. Sorry the post was so long. I promise to write shorter, more frequent posts in the future. Once I get a chance (probably in a week or two) I will put together my observations of Beijing culture. There are definitely many interesting aspects to Chinese society that is very different than American culture. Still, people are people, and I've found I can connect with and relate to everyone I meet, and that was refreshing and reassuring to learn.

Yoni

PS Good to know modern news is the same everywhere -- I'm listening to BBC talk about the successful career of the current Australian Prime Minister. To bring their report to a cheery end, the conclude, "Thus far there are few indications that this Prime Minister's career will come to a short and abrupt end." Why can't you just say he is doing a good job?